Archive for October, 2007

E: Dimpling and Deburring

October 31, 2007

Tonight I researched whether to dimple or countersink the E702 for riveting the E709 rib in place. It seems even though the instructions explicitly state to countersink, most everyone dimples both parts because it’s much easier and in an inherently stronger bond.

  • Dimpled E702 and 709
  • Deburred E702 and 709 

Note 1: I cut my spare micro-countersink cage down so that it would center over the outside holes at the end of the 702 spar and still clear the flange. I didn’t end up using it as I decided to dimple this part instead. I am sure though this will come in handy on tight spots in the future. Note 2: The price of getting the cage cut down is that I most likely ruined my bandsaw blade. 

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E: Drilling

October 30, 2007
  • Drilled E701R skin, E713 and 709 ribs, and E702 spar
  • Drilled aft 3 holes for right elevator tip to #30
  • Diassembled right elevator 

Right Elevator Stiffeners

October 28, 2007

Tasks Completed:

  • Primed left and right stiffeners
  • Back-riveted right elevator skin
  • Bent right elevator skin
  • Clecoed right elevator skin

E: Priming Prep.

October 27, 2007
  • Washed, Acetoned, and Alumiprepped L and R stiffeners

E: Left Skeleton and Counterweight

October 21, 2007

We just got back from a long weekend in Vegas. It was nice be in the warm desert before our winter really kicks into high gear. Now back to the project!

  • Clecoed left elevator skeleton together
  • Cut away right counterweight per plans

Note: Holes in the outboard right elevator spar doubler and the E701R spar are slightly off set by approx. 1/32″. I need to contact Van’s to confirm this is within tolerances. Update (11.20.07): Joe B. at Van’s says its no issue as long as no torsion is created in the spar by trying the force the clecoes in place (which is not happening in my case). Problem resolved.

Rud: Leading Edge

October 15, 2007

I just recovered from a week long cold. I had to get back into the shop just to say I did something. So tonight I just chose to finished off the rudder leading edge. I got all of the pop rivets in except for the very top one. It does not sit well with the bulky pop rivet tool I have right now hitting the counterbalance skin and rib. I’ve read about getting a small cheap pop rivet tool that will fit better in a place like this.

  • Pop riveted rudder leading edge 

Note: “Walking” the leading edge together with duct tape worked great this time and required much less effort than before.

E: Drilling and Misc.

October 6, 2007
  • Match drilled E713 and 714
  • Match drilled E709 and 702
  • Beveled E713 for overlap
  • Touched up powder coating chip on right elevator horn
  • Finished sanding E701L skin