Posts Tagged ‘pop rivet’


January 30, 2012

Today I worked mostly in the baggage area. The floors are drilled, deburred, and dimpled. I’ll just need to prime them now. The F-750 side walls were riveted on. The rudder cables will need to be feed through the bulkheads behind this panel so I left some string sitting in the holes to pull the cable through. Finally I carefully countersunk the side rails above the arm rests. Other than cleaning up a few holes, I should be ready for a mass priming session next weekend. Here’s hoping for a warm front on Sunday.





An Update Finally!

July 20, 2010

Ok so I ignored the build log for a month. But I have a good excuse. I am actually getting some good hours in on the project without sacrificing family or job time… mostly. Anyway, in my last post I was about to take a week off from work in mid-June to finally focus on the QB wings. I had the optimistic idea that I could get them nearly finished with an 80-hour week put toward the project instead of the 80 hour week I’d put in at the real job. Well I probably only logged about 30 hours in the garage that week and in reality the QB wings at my pace is more like 120 hours worth of work. Still I am making great head way and as of mid July I am closing out a lot of the wing work. Without further ado on to the progress:

With the bellcrank bushing drilled out and the metal prep work finished on the aileron mounts, I started by riveting the aileron mounts together and then on the wing. I have the left a few of the rivets undone as I wasn’t able to squeeze them. After butchering a couple of bucked rivets, I decided to order 4″ yoke to get to these rivets later.

Next up I prepped the aileron and flap braces and matched drilled them to the structure.

The aileron brace fitted and drilled

A down the line shot of the flap brace ready for priming.

Onto the control arms. There are two on each wing. A small steel one connects aileron to the bellcrank. A larger aluminum control rod connects the bellcrank to the center fuse control columns. First, I laid out where the hole needed to be drilled using painter tape to mark the circumference and then evenly divding that for the two rivets on the steel rods or the 6 pop rivets on each end of the aluminum arms. The V-block and some boelube on the drill press made quick work of the drilling.

Measure the circumference then divide by 6 and mark the tape.

Using the V-block to assist in drilling the holes.

Then I matched drill the rod end in place.

I left the riveting till later so I could move on to installing the steel mounting brackets on the ailerons and flaps. These were pretty straight forward, though I used a combination of drill press and match drilling to ensure good line up and clean holes for the all the bolts.

After temp. mounting the ailerons, I got out the primer for the flap and aileron braces and mounts. Done and done. Now onto the flap hinges. I took some time to line up the ailerons into neutral position use the wood stringer and tool hole method Van’s suggests in the instructions. This way I was able to fit the hinge and allow for the 1/4″ space between flap and aileron edges. With that mark on both wings, I could line the hinge up accurately and drill at the holes out.

Priming: The bittersweet moment of building. It means your close to assembling something but it's a PITA.

With that out of the way, I worked on countersinking the flap brace. There’s a small curve ball  for the QB wings at the root end of each wing. The standard build instructions spec universal head rivets but with the QB they want us to use flush rivets. I emailed Van’s. Joe said to just follow the instructions for my kit. OK flush cherry max it is. I couldn’t tell you why though.

Next up more riveting on the braces, finishing out the control rods and getting all the washers and spacers in place.

Trim Tab Bending!

December 23, 2007

Okay–so after reading about putting this part together and an aborted attempt last night, I finally got around to bending the trim tab tabs for real.

First, I made another oak break with the interlocking notch at the top. I highly recommend oak or another hard wood because you are going put a lot of pressure on this break and you’ll want to minimize the flex.

The bends on each side worked very well this time. My only complaint is that I ended up with kinks on each trailing edge. This was caused by the trailing edge of the positive break was a tad thinner than the radius of the trim tab. So when all that pressure was applied the edge of the wood break put a kink in the trailing edge of the trim tab.

Tasks Completed:

  • Bent inboard and outboard tabs of the trimtab
  • Pop riveted elevator skin tabs
  • Finished riveting left elevator skin to skeleton

Finished Right Elevator

December 10, 2007

This evening the right elevator was completed. I doubled the number of pop rivets in the middle section to create a nice tight edge. I temporarily installed the elevator to the horizontal stab. It was very satisfying to see a moving control surface. I marked approximately where I need to remove some of the outboard edge of the HS to allow the counterbalance arm of the elevator to swing freely. 

Tasks Completed:  

  • Drilled out leading edge holes to #30
  • Added rivet holes to middle section
  • Pop riveted leading edge
  • Installed rod end bearings and jam nuts 

Rud: Leading Edge

October 15, 2007

I just recovered from a week long cold. I had to get back into the shop just to say I did something. So tonight I just chose to finished off the rudder leading edge. I got all of the pop rivets in except for the very top one. It does not sit well with the bulky pop rivet tool I have right now hitting the counterbalance skin and rib. I’ve read about getting a small cheap pop rivet tool that will fit better in a place like this.

  • Pop riveted rudder leading edge 

Note: “Walking” the leading edge together with duct tape worked great this time and required much less effort than before.

Rud: Riveting and Misc.

August 18, 2007

–Drilled back most holes in ribs to 7/64″ and installed pop rivets.
–Started prep work for trailing edge riveting

So after doing some punch list work on the rudder riveting so far, I began to set up the aluminum angle for completing the trailing edge.

Note 1: Drilled out bad rivet on ride side forward most bottom rib hole.

Note: 2: Need to find a way to squeeze rivet in 2nd most rear hole of right top rib for symmetry.